Henley
Definition
A collarless neckline style featuring a partial button placket that extends below the neckline, commonly used in casual knit tops and shirts. Named after the traditional rowing uniforms worn in Henley-on-Thames, England.
Key Information
- Partial button placket typically 3-5 inches (7.6-12.7 cm) long
- Usually features 2-4 buttons
- Can be made with or without a separate placket piece
- Works well with medium-weight knits
- Popular in both children's and adult garments
- Combines comfort of a t-shirt with button detail interest
- Often includes ribbing at the neckline
Usage and Application
The henley style adds a classic, versatile detail to basic knit tops. It's especially popular in children's clothing because it's both comfortable and easy to put on. When sewing a henley, you'll combine techniques for neckband application and placket construction. This style appears in several of our patterns, offering a great way to elevate a simple t-shirt design while maintaining the comfort of knit fabric.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I prepare the placket area?
A: Interface the placket area before construction. This step is crucial for button stability and preventing stretching during wear.
Q: What type of needle and stitches should I use?
A: Use stretch needles and appropriate stretch stitches to allow the neckline to flex without breaking threads.
Q: What material works best for neckband and placket facing?
A: Ribbing is ideal for both areas because it provides better recovery and a more professional finish than self-fabric. Plus, it's easier to work with around curves.
Q: How do I select appropriate buttons?
A: Choose buttons that complement your fabric weight. Lighter fabrics need smaller, lighter buttons to prevent sagging, while heavier knits can support larger buttons.
Q: What can I do if my placket stretches out?
A: Use lightweight interfacing for stability. This is especially important for very stretchy knits that tend to grow during wear.
Q: Why are my buttonholes skipping stitches?
A: Switch to a stretch or ballpoint needle. Skipped stitches usually mean your current needle isn't properly penetrating the knit fabric.
Q: How should I handle ribbing?
A: Pre-wash ribbing to prevent differential shrinkage. This is essential because ribbing often shrinks at a different rate than your main fabric.
Q: How do I ensure proper buttonhole sizing?
A: Test buttonhole size with your chosen buttons before sewing the garment. Make a sample buttonhole on scrap fabric first - this step saves potential heartbreak later.