Elastic - Sewn In

Definition

A two-step elastic application technique where elastic is first sewn to the fabric edge, then folded over and coverstitched or zigzagged in place, creating a secure, fully-encased finish commonly used in activewear and swimwear. This method results in the elastic being completely enclosed within the fabric fold while maintaining stretch and recovery.

Key Information

  • Elastic is stretched while sewing to create gentle gathering
  • Commonly used for leg openings and arm holes
  • Provides secure hold without bulk
  • Requires careful tension control while sewing
  • Works well with lightweight to medium-weight knits
  • Can be done on regular sewing machine or serger
  • Different from encased elastic methods
  • Typical seam allowance is 1/4 inch (6mm)

Usage and Application

Sewn-in elastic is frequently used in our swimwear and activewear patterns where a clean finish and secure fit are essential. You'll find this technique in patterns like our Kids Swim Bottoms and Athletic Shorts, particularly around leg openings where minimal bulk is desired. The method creates a professional finish while maintaining the stretch properties of both the fabric and elastic.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do I prepare elastic and fabric for sewing?

A: Mark both elastic and fabric into quarters, then match these marks. This ensures even distribution of gathering around the garment.

Q: What stitch settings work best for sewing elastic?

A: Use a zigzag stitch with 2.5-3mm width and 2.5mm length. These settings provide the right balance of strength and stretch.

Q: How should I handle the elastic while sewing?

A: Stretch the elastic (not the fabric) while sewing. The amount of stretch will affect the final fit, so test on scraps first.

Q: What should I do if my elastic keeps flipping to the right side?

A: Check that you're not stretching the fabric while sewing. Let the elastic do the work - the fabric should stay flat.

Q: Why are my stitches skipping?

A: Switch to a stretch or ballpoint needle. Regular needles can cause skipped stitches on elastic and stretchy fabrics.

Q: How do I know if my elastic is good quality?

A: Pre-test elastic recovery on a scrap piece. Pull it firmly and release - it should snap back to its original length quickly.

Related Terms

Elastic

Encased with Band - Alternative elastic application method

Elastic

Attaching to Swimsuit - Specific technique for swimwear

Seam Allowance

Important for proper elastic placement